Fabric Structure – I

Classification of textile fabrics; classification of woven fabrics- simple, compound and complex; fundamental aspects of woven fabrics - count of graph paper, factors influencing the selection of appropriate count of graph paper, graphical representation of structure of a woven fabric- warp way and weft way; study of plain weave, ornamentation of plain weaves; study of derivative structures of plain weave – regular and irregular warp rib, weft rib, hopsack weaves. catch-cord technique for weaving warp rib and hop-sack; design, draft, denting, peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves.

Study of twill weaves up to 12 threads, classification of twills - warp faced twill, weft faced twill and equal faced twill; angle of inclination of twill diagonals, influence of the twist direction of yarn over prominence of twill lines; study of derivatives of twill weaves - wavy twill, herringbone, transposed twill, broken twill and curved twill, elongated twill, combined twill, shaded twill and figured twill; diamond, diaper; regular and irregular sateen and satin up to 12 threads, dice check using twill and satin weaves; design, draft, denting, peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves.

Study of honey comb weaves - Ordinary honey comb and Brighton honey comb – cell formation; study of Huck-a-Back, mock leno and corkscrew weaves. Crepe weaves – construction upon sateen base, by combination of floating weaves with plain thread, by reversing and by insertion of one weave over another; design, draft, and peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves. Colour and weave effect- simple colour and weave effect, continuous line effects, hound’s tooth patterns, bird’s eye and spot effects, hairline stripes, step patterns, and all over effects; combination of weaves – twill and plain, mock leno and plain, honey comb and plain, stripe and check effect by these combinations; distorted thread effects – salient feature, warp and weft distortion.

Bedford cord weaves – salient features, plain faced Bedford cord (regular and alternate pick principle), twill faced bed ford cord, wadded bed ford cord, and crepon Bedford cords; welt structures – salient features and manufacturing techniques, ordinary welts, wadded welts (loose back and fast back); design, draft, denting, peg/tie-up plan and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves.

15 Backed cloths- warp & weft backed cloths using twill, sateen and satin, weft wadded warp backed cloth, reversible and non-reversible fabrics using twill, satin and sateen, weft backed cloth - reversible and non-reversible weft backed cloth using twill, satin and sateen, warp wadded weft backed cloth – reversible and non- reversible fabrics using twill, satin and sateen -Imitation backed cloth, imitation warp and weft backed cloths; design, draft, denting, peg/tie-up and thread interlacing diagram of above weaves.