Handloom Weaving Technology

Objects of winding, principles of cheese and cone winding machines, drum and precision winding, uniform build of yarn package, control of balloons, Classification of yarn faults and its removal, concepts in yarn clearing –mechanical, optical and electronic clearers, knotters and splicers, weft winding, study of modern automatic winders. Primitive Charka, High Speed Charka, Pirn and bobbin winding for Handlooms.

Yarn packages - hanks, cones, cheeses, and spools - Characteristics and use; essential characteristic of warp and weft, Objectives of warping, peg warping, vertical warping and sectional warping, objectives and importance of sizing of cotton yarn, ingredients used in size mixture for handloom industry and their functions, various forms of sizing- hank sizing and street warp sizing. Characteristics of ideal sizing, common defects during sizing- causes and remedies.

Evolution of handlooms, Various parts of a handloom and their functions, types of handlooms- Throw shuttle handloom, Fly shuttle pit loom and frame loom. Relationship between type of handloom and the product, passage of warp in frame loom, motions of a handloom, definitions of primary, secondary & auxiliary, motions. Types of shed formations– center closed shed, bottom closed shed, top closed shed, open shed and semi open shed - advantages, disadvantages and shedding devices, shedding mechanism of a handloom using treadles and Heald reversing motions – roller system, pulley reversing system and jack and lam rod system.

Picking mechanism of a handloom, types of shuttles – throw shuttle, fly shuttle and roller shuttle, design and suitability; beat-up: Open shed beat-up, closed shed beat up and crossed shed beat-up in handlooms, different types of reed: Bamboo reed, steel reed and all metal steel reed, suitability for various fabrics; let off motion in handlooms – ratchet wheel and pawl, rope and weight, rope lever and weight motions, take up motion in handloom – poker rod, ratchet wheel & pawl, auxiliary motions of a handloom – temple motion and terry motion, handloom dobbies – lattice dobby, barrel dobby and vertical dobby. Read Count - dents per linear space and groups of dents per linear space models. Stockport System of Reed count - relation between reed count, number of ends per dent, ends per inch, cloth width, reed width and total number of ends. Heald count calculations.

Introduction to numbering of yarns: indirect system of numbering of yarns – New English cotton, New French, metric, worsted, Woolen Yorkshire Skein, linen, spun yarn, Direct system of numbering of yarns – Denier metric, Tex; Conversion of count of yarn - indirect to indirect, direct to direct, indirect to direct, direct to indirect systems. Determination of Equivalent/Resultant count of folded yarns with and without contraction during twisting, Costing of folded yarn, Average count of warp.