BHT072 Advanced Fabric Structure Syllabus — AKTU 2025-26

Syllabus

5 units · 45 lecture hours

Unit1

Unit 1

9 hrs

Figuring with extra threads – extra warp and extra weft – designing and comparison. Extra warp and Extra weft figuring techniques using healds, healds with dobby and healds with jacquard. Anchoring of spot effects. Figured warp backed cloth and weft backed cloth.Damsk using pressure harness, bannister harness system and self-twilling jacquard.

Unit2

Unit 2

9 hrs

Figured Patent satin- structures of cloth -use of straight tie with healds, Designing, simplified enlargement and punching techniques and use of working comber board for saving of punched cards designing and simplified enlargement technique. Figured pique- structures of cloth, Use of straight tie with healds, Designing simplified enlargement and punching technique.

Unit3

Unit 3

9 hrs

Tapestry – Traditional tapestries, Simple weft faced tapestries, Modern tapestry- structure of cloth. 3 pick tapestry using jacquard and heald method. Designing and simplified enlargement and punching techniques. Figured terry 3 pick, 4 pick terry- graph designing, punching technique for straight tie, straight draft and sectional Draft and sectional tie, sectional draft with healds.

Unit4

Unit 4

9 hrs

Figured double cloth- design development and punching process for straight harnessing with sectional draft and sectional harnessing with sectional draft, FiguredLeno and gauze fabrics – Salient features, Indication of leno structures, drafting plan and lifting plan of straight and pointed draft structures. Thread interlacing diagram of leno structures, Combination of Leno, Plain and Twill– Drafting plan and Lifting plan.

Unit5

Unit 5

9 hrs

Study of traditional Handloom Fabrics of India – Kanchipuram Saree – Banaras, Brocades and Sarees – Jamdani Sarees – Paithani Sarees – Chanderi Sarees– Patola Sarees – Pochampalli Tie and Dye Sarees –Kota Doria- Baluchar Saree-Feature of Riha- Lysemphy-Mekhala-Woollen Shawl- Tweed-Himaroo Shawls. Quality particulars of Reserved Handloom Fabrics-Dothi-Shirting-Dress Material-Home Furnishing-Made ups-Floor coverings. Outcomes

Course Outcomes (COs)5 outcomes

After completion of the course student will be able to:

CO1Apply figured extra warp and extra weft and figured double cloth with simplified graph enlargement and punching.
CO2Develop the traditional and modern tapestries and simplified graph enlargement of modern tapestry and figured terry.
CO3Create the figured pique and figured patent satin and simplified graph enlargement of figured pique and figured patent satin.
CO4Established design of leno and gauze fabrics.
CO5Develop design on Dobby & Jacquard through CAD creation.

TextBook

GrosickiZ.J., “Watson’sofTextileDesignandColour”Vo.1, Woodhead Publilcations, Cambridge England, 2004.
GrosickiZ. J., “Watson’sAdvancedTextileDesignandColour”,Vol.II, Butterworths, London, 1989.
WilsonJ.,”HandbookofTextileDesign”,TextileInstitute,Manchester,2001
Singh S. K., The Sari “ Styles- Patterns- History- Techniques” with over 470 Illustrations, 206 In Colour, Thames and Hudson, London, 1995
Varadarajan L. and Patel K. A. OF Fibre and Loom- The Indian Tradiation, National Institute of Design, Manohar, Ahmedabad, 2008

References

HomeC.E.,”Geometric Symmetry in Patternsand Tilings” TextileInstitute, Manchester, 2000.
Seyam A.M.” Structural Designof Woven Fabrics, Theory and Practice” TextileInstitute, Manchester, 2002.
GeormerD,”WovenStructureandDesign,part1:SingleClothConstruction: WIRA,U.K.1986.
Geomer D, “Woven Structure and Design, Part 2: Compound Structures” WIRA,U.K., 1989.
Das S., Fabric Art “ Heritage of India”, Shakti Malik Abhinav Publciation, New Delhi, 1992.
Dhamija J. and Jain J., Handwoven Fabrics of India, Mapin Publishing Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad, 1989.

Official AKTU syllabus

This subject is on page 10, 11 of the original AKTU PDF.

Official AKTU syllabus PDF ↗